This is the part where this blog gets a bit out of chronological order. This is mainly because I fell in love with Los Angeles, and so want to write a whole post solely about the place and our time there. So what follows is an update on Vegas, Barstow and Fresno, but that’s not quite the route we took.
Las Vegas on a budget is an interesting experience. Travelling for two months with a couple of nights in Vegas right in the middle isn’t exactly conductive to the Vegas lifestyle. We made do, though. Eloise actually ended up $40 up. I don’t want to talk about how much I lost. We almost made up for it in free drinks though (we didn’t, it’s just what I’m telling myself to feel better).
I think the most startling thing about Vegas wasn’t the open flaunting or vices normally considered somewhat taboo in society, as it’s traditionally known for, but the hotel itself. The Rio, a subsidiary hotel of the Caesars brand, is about ten minutes walk from The Strip. However, you could spend a month there and never need to leave the hotel to see the strip once. The entire business model is obviously predicated upon you never feeling as though you have to leave the hotel, and therefore never spend your money elsewhere once you get through the door, but even so it is interesting to see, as it is unlike any other place I have ever stayed.
Las Vegas is definitely on our “to do again” list, but with a bit more money. Pro Tip; if you’re ever in Las Vegas and see these giant boozy frozen slushy drinks for sale, don’t be suckered into buying one. The sugar rush and then crash will mess you up (just ask Eloise).
Barstow is a small town in the middle of the Sierra Nevada mountains, about halfway between Las Vegas and Los Angeles. We stopped off for the night to tick staying in a motel off of our list of American things to do, and went to a classic old diner for dinner. On the drive over, I took us through some back roads to see the desert and it was a uniquely lonely experience. Parking the car up and walking a hundred yards into the desert, all sight and sound of civilisation vanished. All that remained was the desert.
Barstow used to be the final major port of call on Route 66 for those travelling from Chicago to Los Angeles. Since the redistribution of America’s highways, it seems to have fallen by the wayside somewhat, but still remains a great stopping off point for travellers on their way to or from Los Angeles via middle America.
This is where the blog skips forward a bit; from Barstow we moved onto Los Angeles, and spend five days there. More about that in the next post. After that, we moved onto Fresno.
Fresno is known for a couple of things; first, it’s the easiest place to fly into to access Yosemite National Park (which is why we were there), and second, it’s the meth capital of California (which is definitely not why we were there). It isn’t a touristy place at all, but has a unique charm. One of the things I wanted to do on this trip was see some parts of America that you don’t see on adverts or in the media. Fresno was exactly that, and we had an amazing few days there. When ending up in conversations with locals, whether they were bartenders or patrons, the overriding theme of their questions was “…why are you here?”. In fact, one bartender had never seen a British ID before, and another joked that they could be the worst fakes for all he knew about them. Fresno shouldn’t be discounted when in California, even as just a stop off point on a trip up or down the state.
Stay in the Tower District if you can; it’s full of plenty of nice places and people. We ended up there for a few quiet drinks during the day before our 5AM bus ride to Yosemite the next day. Two or three drinks in a couple of bars in the afternoon sunshine. We got home at midnight, and obviously missed the bus. Special thank you to Dad (or Sean depending on whether you’re me or not) for helping us rent a car and get up there. It made the trip up infinitely better, and was the most beautiful drive I’ve ever done in my life. Even better than that bit of the M5 after Bristol where the road splits in two.
Yosemite deserves its own post, but I’m way behind so I’m throwing it into this one and hoping you’re still reading. For those unfamiliar with Yosemite, a large percentage of the most recognisable “sights” are located in Yosemite Valley, a valley several miles long in the heart of the park. This is where Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, and El Capitan are. To access the valley you drive through the park and then through a tunnel to a point called Tunnel View. There is a bittersweet taste in my mouth writing about Tunnel View, knowing that I will never see it again for the first time. To leave the tunnel and be thrown back into bright sunshine and see the valley laid out before you is an unforgettable sight; El Capitan bathing in the afternoon sun on your left, Bridalveil Falls cascading on your right, and the rest of the valley fading off into the distance to snow-capped mountains.
Yosemite Valley itself is a loop of road that allows you to park up and see every major site in Yosemite itself. There are plenty of stopoff points along the road though, and these are worth stopping in to see some of the natural beauty of the place away from the more heavily documented major sites. We ended up paddling through a tiny glacial melt stream, leading into a perfectly still river giving beautiful reflections of Yosemite Falls, a view in sharp contrast to being at the viewpoint beneath them. It is hard to reconcile the peace and calm of seeing the Falls reflected in that water with the awesome power that it exudes up close.
I would urge everybody who does not have Yosemite on their bucket list to add it to it, and those who do to move it further up than it already is. Photographs and words cannot do it justice, but there are a few photographs on my Instagram for anybody interested: @cheapvacation35mm
We’re currently on a bus just arriving in the outskirts of Houston. Los Angeles and San Diego will be the next post, hopefully in a couple of days so by the time we’re sunning ourselves on a beach in Miami, you’ll be all caught up. Thanks for reading it all if you made it this far.
Peace.